If you just unboxed a PS5 and plugged it into your 4K TV, the console probably looks decent out of the box — but decent is not optimal. Getting the best display settings for PS5 on 4K TV means working through two menus: the PS5’s own Screen and Video settings, and your TV’s picture menu. The PS5 side is mostly about enabling the right video formats; the TV side is about disabling the processing that adds input lag and enabling the modes that unlock 120Hz and HDR.
Before touching anything, understand what to prioritize in order:
1. Resolution and game mode first. Running at 4K with your TV’s Game picture mode is the single biggest quality-of-life win. Game mode cuts input lag dramatically by bypassing most video processing, which matters far more in actual gameplay than a marginal contrast tweak.
2. HDR second. The PS5’s HDR output needs to be calibrated once with the built-in adjustment screens, and your TV needs HDR Game mode active. A misconfigured HDR setup looks washed out and will make you think HDR is broken when it isn’t.
3. 120Hz third, if your TV supports it. Only a subset of games offer 120Hz output modes, and the trade-off is usually reduced resolution. It’s worth enabling at the console level so supported games can use it, but don’t expect every title to benefit.
4. VRR last, where available. Variable refresh rate eliminates screen tearing and stutter on TVs that support HDMI 2.1 VRR. If your TV has it, turn it on; if it doesn’t, nothing is lost.
The order matters because each step builds on the previous one — there’s no point chasing 120Hz if your TV is still in a laggy Cinema mode, and no point enabling HDR before resolution is locked in. Note that anything labeled “PS5 Pro” in menus behaves the same way, with Game Boost handling per-game enhancements automatically; as of 2026 the core settings path below is unchanged.
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Quick Recommended Settings
These are the values to aim for on a mid-range or better 4K TV with HDMI 2.1 inputs. Exact menu names vary slightly by manufacturer, so alternates are noted in the sections below.
| Setting | Recommended value | Why |
|---|---|---|
| PS5: Resolution | 2160p | Native 4K output; the TV scales when games render lower internally |
| PS5: 4K Video Transfer Rate | Automatic (or 2160p YUV420 if signal drops) | Maximum bandwidth when the TV handles it; YUV420 as fallback for unstable HDMI links |
| PS5: HDR | Always (calibrated via Adjust HDR) | Enables HDR system-wide so supported games and apps use it |
| PS5: VRR | On (plus Apply to Unsupported Games, per preference) | Removes tearing and stutter on VRR-capable TVs |
| PS5: 120Hz Output | Automatic | Lets 120Hz-capable games run at their high-frame-rate modes |
| PS5: RGB Range | Full (0–255) | Avoids crushed blacks from mismatched limited/full ranges |
| TV: Picture mode | Game (or Game Optimizer on LG) | Lowest input lag; required for ALLM and often for 4K120 + VRR |
| TV: ALLM | On | Auto-switches to Game mode when the PS5 starts |
| TV: HDMI Deep Color / Enhanced format | On / Enhanced for the PS5’s input | Unlocks full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth for 4K120 and HDR |
| TV: Motion smoothing (TruMotion, Motionflow, etc.) | Off | Adds input lag and the soap-opera effect; harmful in games |
| TV: Dynamic tone mapping | On (HGIG where offered) | Recovers highlight detail in HDR scenes frame by frame |
Setting-by-Setting
Resolution and 4K Video Transfer Rate
Go to Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output. Set Resolution to 2160p — even for games that render internally at 1440p or 1080p, since the PS5’s scaler to your TV is generally as good as or better than letting the TV upscale a 1080p signal.
Then check 4K Video Transfer Rate. Automatic lets the PS5 negotiate the highest reliable bandwidth. If you see sparkly artifacts, dropouts, or black-screen flicker, step down to 2160p YUV420 and, if needed, 2160p YUV422. The trade-off: YUV420 reduces color resolution, which is nearly invisible in motion, whereas an unstable 4K RGB signal causes visible dropouts — so Automatic is right for most people, and YUV420 is the correct fix for flaky HDMI links, especially through AVR passthrough.
How to check you’re actually getting 4K: on the same Video Output screen, Video Output Information shows exactly what signal the TV accepted — resolution, refresh rate, HDR format, and color format. If it shows anything other than what you set, the cable or TV input is the bottleneck.
HDR
Set Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output → HDR to Always. Then run Adjust HDR (three screens: brightness, darkness, brightness again) and follow the on-screen targets. The calibration varies per TV, so don’t copy numbers from a guide — set it on your panel until the logos just disappear.
The trade-off: Always applies HDR to SDR games too in some titles and can look slightly dim in the dashboard on aggressive tone-mapping TVs. If that bothers you, On When Supported is a reasonable alternative — but the risk is forgetting a game supports HDR and playing it in SDR without realizing.
On the TV side, make sure the input switches to an HDR game mode. On Sony TVs this is automatic; on LG, confirm Game Optimizer shows “HDR” active; on Samsung, check that the input’s Game mode status bar appears when a game launches.
VRR (Variable Refresh Rate)
Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output → VRR — set to On. The sub-option Apply to Unsupported Games forces VRR onto titles that don’t officially support it. This is a genuine judgment call: on games with unstable frame pacing it smooths things out noticeably; on a few titles it can introduce visual artifacts. Enable it, test your most-played games, and turn it off per your experience rather than on anyone’s say-so.
The trade-off: VRR requires a Game-mode-enabled HDMI 2.1 input on the TV, and on some TVs enabling VRR disables certain picture features or slightly reduces peak brightness. If your TV doesn’t support HDMI VRR, this setting will simply be grayed out — leave it.
120Hz Output
Set 120Hz Output to Automatic on the same Video Output screen. This doesn’t force anything; it permits games with 120Hz modes (typically a performance toggle in the game’s own graphics menu) to use them. You then opt in per game — for example, enabling the “Performance” or “120Hz” mode inside a title that offers one.
The trade-off: 120Hz modes almost always render at a lower internal resolution, and some titles at 1080p internally. Fast-paced competitive games benefit most; slower single-player games often look better at 60fps with higher resolution. Also verify your TV: on many sets only one or two inputs accept 4K at 120Hz. Check the input labeling in the TV manual or the manufacturer’s app.
RGB Range
Set Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output → RGB Range to Full, and set the matching TV input to Full (sometimes called “HDMI RGB PC Range” or “Black Level: High” on Sony, “Black Level: Full” elsewhere). The failure mode is a mismatch: PS5 on Full with the TV on Limited crushes shadow detail; the reverse raises blacks to a milky gray.
How to check: display a dark scene and look for detail in shadows. If near-black detail is missing, the ranges don’t match. To undo: set both back to Automatic, which usually negotiates correctly.
TV Game Mode and ALLM
On the TV, the PS5’s input should be in Game mode (LG: Game Optimizer; Samsung: Game Mode in the picture menu or via the Game Bar; Sony: Game picture mode; TCL/Hisense: Game or Game Master). With ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode) enabled on both the TV and the PS5 (Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output → ALLM), the TV switches automatically when the console wakes.
The trade-off: Game mode disables most processing, so SDR streaming apps on the same input will look flat — that’s fine, because apps like Netflix don’t need low latency. Some TVs restrict 120Hz or VRR to Game mode, which is another reason to keep it. How to undo: turn ALLM off on the TV if you use that input for a PC or other source and don’t want auto-switching.
TV HDMI Input Bandwidth
Most TVs ship with HDMI inputs in a limited bandwidth mode to avoid compatibility issues. You must set the PS5’s input to full bandwidth: LG calls it HDMI Deep Color → 4K120 → On per input; Samsung uses Connection → Game Console Settings or per-input HDMI UHD Color → Enhanced; Sony uses External Inputs → HDMI Signal Format → Enhanced Format (VRR) per input; TCL/Hisense label it HDMI 2.1 Mode or Enhanced HDMI.
How to check: after enabling, view Video Output Information on the PS5 — 4K 120Hz and HDR will only list as supported if the TV input accepts the full signal. If 120Hz won’t engage, this setting is the usual culprit. To undo: set the input back to its default format.
By Hardware Tier
Low tier: HDMI 2.0 TV (4K, 60Hz max)
Your ceiling is 4K60 HDR. Set Resolution to 2160p, 4K Video Transfer Rate to Automatic (drop to YUV420 if unstable), HDR to Always, and RGB Range to Full with the TV matched. Enable ALLM/Game mode if the TV offers it; if it doesn’t, manually select the Game or lowest-processing picture mode. You cannot use VRR or 120Hz — don’t chase them, and don’t buy an HDMI 2.1 switch expecting miracles. Use the cable that shipped with the console; after-market cables matter only if you see dropouts, in which case try the original directly into the TV, bypassing any receiver.
Mid tier: HDMI 2.1 TV without full VRR support (or 120Hz on limited inputs)
Follow the main table, but confirm which input carries 4K120 — it’s often only HDMI 3 or 4. Move the PS5 to that port. Enable 120Hz Output to Automatic and HDR to Always, calibrate with Adjust HDR, and enable VRR if the TV advertises HDMI VRR or Freesync Premium. Turn off motion smoothing by name in the picture menu. Prioritize Game mode correctness over picture-mode tweaking; a slightly less vibrant Game mode beats a beautiful but laggy Filmmaker mode for gameplay.
High tier: full HDMI 2.1 TV (4K120 + VRR)
Enable everything: 2160p, Automatic transfer rate, 120Hz Automatic, VRR On (test Apply to Unsupported Games per title), HDR Always with per-TV calibration, ALLM on both ends, Enhanced HDMI format on the PS5’s input. Where the TV offers HGIG (HDR Gaming Interest Group tone mapping), enable it and set the PS5’s in-game HDR brightness to match the HGIG test image rather than maxing it — this prevents the TV’s dynamic tone mapping from fighting the game’s own tone mapping. Verify with Video Output Information that HDR and 120Hz both report active during a supported game.
Common Mistakes
Mismatched RGB range
What causes it: PS5 set to Full while the TV input defaults to Limited (or vice versa). How to check: crushed or milky dark scenes; compare a dark game against the same scene after switching. What to do: set PS5 to Full and the TV input’s black level/RGB range to Full or High. How to undo: return both to Automatic if you later connect a different device to the input.
PS5 plugged into the wrong HDMI port
What causes it: many TVs only offer full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth on specific inputs, often labeled 4K120 or Game. How to check: open Video Output Information and see whether 120Hz is offered; check the port labeling on the TV bezel or manual. What to do: move the PS5 to the full-bandwidth port and enable Enhanced format on it. How to undo: none needed — but note the old port will now reject the signal if you move devices back.
Chasing a 120Hz mode that the game doesn’t have
What causes it: assuming console-level 120Hz output makes all games 120fps. How to check: enable the in-game graphics/performance menu — if no 120Hz toggle exists, the game caps at 30 or 60fps regardless. What to do: leave 120Hz Output on Automatic and pick per-game modes deliberately. How to undo: set 120Hz Output to Off if your TV’s 120Hz handling introduces artifacts in a specific title.
HDR enabled but never calibrated
What causes it: setting HDR to Always and skipping Adjust HDR. How to check: highlights look blown out or the whole image looks dim and gray in HDR games. What to do: run Settings → Screen and Video → Adjust HDR and complete all three screens on your TV. How to undo: re-run calibration after changing TV picture modes or dynamic tone-mapping settings, since they interact.
Signal dropouts through a receiver
What causes it: an older AVR’s HDMI board can’t pass 4K120 reliably. How to check: intermittent black screens or sparkles, especially in HDR/120Hz games. What to do: set 4K Video Transfer Rate to 2160p YUV420, or run the PS5 directly to the TV and route audio out separately (eARC from TV to receiver). How to undo: restore Automatic once you upgrade the receiver.
FAQ
Should I use Performance or Fidelity mode in games?
For anything fast — shooters, racers, action games — Performance almost always feels better; frame rate perception beats resolution perception in motion. For slow, cinematic single-player games, Fidelity mode’s higher resolution and better ray tracing can be worth 30fps, but only if the frame pacing is solid. Try both on your display; the right answer depends more on genre than on any universal rule.
Does HDMI 2.0 vs 2.1 matter that much?
For 4K60 HDR gaming, no — HDMI 2.0 carries it fine. It matters only for 120Hz output, VRR, and uncompressed high-bandwidth 4K signals. If your TV tops out at HDMI 2.0, you’re losing little; the biggest single improvement available to you is Game mode, which costs nothing.
Do I need the original HDMI cable that came with the PS5?
The bundled cable is a certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cable and is sufficient for every setting in this guide. Aftermarket cables only matter if you’re seeing dropouts and the current cable is damaged, unusually long, or not rated for 4K. Test by running Video Output Information and watching for instability across a few game sessions.
Why does HDR look worse than SDR on my TV?
Almost always one of three things: HDR was never calibrated with Adjust HDR, the TV’s dynamic tone mapping is set aggressively, or the TV’s peak brightness is too low for HDR to show its advantage — common on budget edge-lit panels. Calibrate first, enable HGIG or a moderate dynamic tone-mapping mode second, and if the panel genuinely can’t get bright enough, HDR Off is a legitimate choice rather than a failure.
